Garment-sleeve and the art of knitting and adapting same for attachment to knit



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GARMENT SLEEVE ANDVART OF KNITTING AND AD'APTING SAME PDR ATTACHMENT T0KNIT GARMENTS No. 514,909. .PaA'ntedI'eb 20, 1,894.

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` UNITED STATES PATENT EEICE.

FRANK A. BYRAM, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

GARMENT-SLEEVE AND THE ART 0E KNITTING AND ADAPTING SAME FOR ATTACHMENTT0 KNIT GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part O Letters :Patent N0. 514,909, dated February20, 1894:. Applicationiiled June 14, 1893. Serial No. 477,543. (Nospecimens.)

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK A. BYRAM, a citizen of the United States,residing at Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State ofPennsylvania, have invented certain v new and useful Improvements inGarment- Sleeves and the Art of Knitting and Adapting the Same forAttachment to Knit Garments, of which the following is a specication.

My invention has relation to the manufacture of-knit-garments generally,though having reference more particularly to undershirts, and has forits object to provide va novel, simple and efficient method whereby thesleeves of the same may be fitted or adapted for attachment to thearm-holes thereof. Heretofore, this end has been accomplished in variousways, as for example, by the insertion of a triangular piece or gussetin a corresponding opening in the under side of each sleeve, thusWidening the inner end of the latter to conform to the size of thearm-holes in the body of the garment, resulting in the formation of apair of seams in each sleeve, adjacent to the lower part of thearm-holes, the same adding tothe bulk beneath the arms of the wearer,causing considerable discomfort, producing heat and increasing theliability to chaiing, while, at the same time, entailing unnecessaryexpense in the production and detracting from the appearance of thefinished garment. Also, the expedient of laterally stretching the innerends of the sleeves until they equal the width of the arm-holes, hasbeen resorted to but found objectionable, for the reason that thesleeves are `thereby rendered inelastic and apt to bind on the arms ofthe wearer,while the constant strain on the fabric detracts from itsdurability, rendering the garment weakest at the points where it shouldbe as strong, if not stronger than, any other part.

My invention consists in knitting both sleeves of the garmentcontinuous, with the central portion or junction thereof of increasedwidth or diameter, then separating them by a diagonal or straight out,according to the size of the arm-holes, through the enlarged portion,,saidsleeves being thereby adapted for attachment to the body of thegarment without further preparation or the addition of any part orparts, effecting an economy of material, a saving of labor, avoiding`all Waste and reducing the cost of manufacture, while dispensing withthe necessity for the insertion of gussets and the resultant bulk orgathering under the arms of the wearer, conducing to nicety of fit andgrace of outline of the finished garment.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is va plan view, in outline, of apair of sleeves having my improvement applied thereto, illustratingtheir line of separation. Fig. 2 is aplan view, in outline, of anundershirt with such sleeves secured to the arm-holes thereof.

Fig. 3 is a diagram, enlarged, showing the preferred manner of wideningthe central portion of the sleeves prior to their separation, and Fig.et a diagram, enlarged, showing the attainment of the same end in aslightly different way.

Referring to said drawings, in said Fig. 1, the sleeves A A', prior totheir attachment to the body f the garment, are knitin one'piece,practically end to end, in the form of aseamless tube or cylinder A2,the latter being distended or widened at its center, or at the junctionof said sleeves, as at B. Such widen` ing isA capable of accomplishmentin various ways, for instance, through knitting more loosely or slackerbetween the lines a: and y, as at D in Fig. 3, than are the stitcheslettered C which compose the main portions of said sleeves, and.splicing an extra thread to each of those in such main portions,beginning at either of said lines, or the introduction of a heavierthread instead, as at E in Fig. 4; such eXtra or heavier threads makingup for the lengthening or widening of the loops consepart into twoequal, gusset-like, sections b b2, each integralwith a sleeve and havingtheir edges of extent like unto that of the arm-holes in the shirt-bodyF, or approximately so. Obviously, by a diagonal eut a m uch largeropening in the sleeve is produced than by a straight one and variationsin the angle of inclination thereof effect a corresponding dierence inthe size of such opening. Still, with the widening of the inner ends ofthe sleeves by the method herein described, even astraight cut, at rightangles with the axis of the widened portion B, on the line zforinstance, will result in the formation of an opening normally largerthan the width of the sleeve proper, withoutresortin g to the lateralstretching of the same. The sleeves AA being now, through the simplesevering of the part which united them, and without further operationentirely adapted for attachment to the shirtbody, are next secured tothe edges f of the i sleeves for attachment to knit garmentsconarm-holesin the shirt-body by stitching or otherwise as shown in Fig. 2, thewidest portions of the sections b b being lowermost, in place of theordinary gussets, While the seams incident to the latter and theirobjectionable features are wholly dispensed with.

In Fig. 3-of the drawings the proportionate enlargement of the stitchesD which form the widened portions of the sleeves appears some-` whatexaggerated. In practice these stitches are only slackened an extentequal to the bulk ot the extra thread, or to the difference between thelighter and heavier threads which` form the main and widened portionsrespectsleeves for attachment toknit garments conively of the sleeves;attaining the widening of the wales of the fabric and a correspondingincrease of width at the desired point, without rendering such fabricmore open or the exertion of any strain on the threadsk thereof, thuspreserving the full strength and elasticity of the same.

What I claim as my invention is as follows:

1. A sleeve for knit garmentshaving the` end which is united to the bodyof the garment widened and provided with diagonal edges, for the purposespecified.

2. A sleeve for knit garments having the end which is united to the bodyof the garment composed of wider wales than those which compose the restof the sleeve and provided With diagonal edges, for the purposespecified'.

3. A sleeve for knit garments having the end which is united to the bodyot' the gar- Y ment composed of loosely knit wales, the bulk of thethreads which form such wales being increased, and provided withdiagonal edges, for the purpose specified.

4. The method of forming and adapting sleeves for attachment to knitgarments con,- sisthg in knitting a pair of such sleeves continuous andsevering them diagonally, for the purpose specied.

5. The method of forming and adapting sleevesfor attachment to knitgarments consisting in knitting a pair of such sleeves coningthemdagonally, forthe purpose specified.

7. The method of forming and adapting sleeves for attachment to knitgarments consisting in knitting a pair of such sleeves continuous, witha widened intermediate portion, and severing them through the widenedportion, for the purpose specified.

8. The method of forming and adapting sleeves-for attachment to knitgarments co11- sisting in knitting a pair of such sleeves continuous, intubular form, with a widened intermediate portion, and severing themthroughthe widenedl portion, for the purpose specified.

9. The method. oii formingy and adapting sisting in knitting a pair ofsuehsleeves continuous, in seamless tubular form,` with a widenedintermediate portion, and severing them diagonally through the widenedportion, for the purpose specified.`

l0. The method of forming and adapting sleeves for attachment toknitgarments con- 4sisting in knitting a pair ot' such sleevescontinuous,with the intermediate portion widcned by widening the wales of.thefabrimand severing them` through the widened portion, for the purposespecified.

11. The method of forming and adapting sisting in knitting a pair ofsuch sleeves-continuous, in tubular form, with the intermefdiate portionwidened by widening thewales of the fabric, and severing them throughthe widened portion, for the purpose specified.

12. The method of forming and adapting sleeves for attachment toknitgarmentsrconsisting in knitting apair of suchfsleevescontinuous, inseamless tubular form,with the intermediate portion widened` by wideningthe wales of the fabric, and severing them diagonally through thewidened portion, for the purpose, specified.

13. The method of forming and` adapting sleevesrfor attachment to knitgarmentsconsisting in knitting apair of suchI sleeves continuous, withthe intermediate portion widened by knitting loosely and increasing thebulkoii the th reads which composethestitches, and severing them throughthe widened portion, for the` purpose specified.

14.. The method ot' forming and adapting sleeves for attachment to knitgarmentsconsisting in knitting a pair of such sleeves continuous, intubular form, with the intermediate portion widened4 by knitting.`loosely and increasing the bulkof the threads whichcompose the stitches,and severing themfthrough the widened portion, for the purposespecified.

15. The method of forming and adapting sleeves for attachment to knitgarments con- IOO sisting in knitting a pair of such sleeves oon- Intestimony whereof I have hereunto set tinuous, in seamless tubular form,with Vthe my hand this 10th day of June, A..D. 1893. intermediateportion widened by knitting FRANK A BYRANL loosely and increasing thebulk of the threads 5 which compose the stitches, and severing themWitnesses:

diagonally through the widened portion, for f J. F. HARTMANN, thepurpose specified. i WM. H. POWELL.

